Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : wow – pretty nice in front of Taco Bell. very high tide but fat cleanish lumps breaking/crumbling. had obe bit of a monster a right – took off late then was trying to make my way around a big section of whitewater – i could feel it bearing down on me – in front of me was a clean open sectioned paradise – but i couldn’t make it- the whitewater caught up with me and essentially swallowed me. last wave was a weaving meandering fat right –
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions