Month: August 2024

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : **
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Almost abandoned ship. It was dead flat up to the A lot pump house – where there was a little micro close to shore wave. However, up North there was a pod of about six people. After much hemming and hawing I suited up and lugged me myself and I up North. Glad I did because – there were little sections breaking here and there – mostly rights – that offered up sections of open faced grace. I surfed well – with control – and had a great last nose ride that practically ended with me just stepping off the b board onto dry sand…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC 3/3+
Time/Length : am/1.40
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – creek repeat – delivers again. Not really that great size wise as previous few days – but still some righteous little clean lines coming through. Surfed very solid – so I think the lack of size was made up for by the fact that I made the most of the waves I did get. got some nice nose rides. After my last ride a woman came up to me on the beach and said “DO YOU GIVE LESSONS?” I looked at her for a long time – then like Charlton Heston at the end of Planet of the Apes- I fell on my knees and started pounding the sand- weeping uncontrollably – not in anger that earth was forever lost – but that another human being thought I was perhaps a good enough surfer to give a lesson. After I looked up into the sun, tears streaming down my face and thanking Neptune I noticed – for some reason – she was looking at me strangely. Thereafter, I directed her to the good folk at Traveller and AS a right proper teacher…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC 3+/3+
Time/Length : am/1
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – much smaller from yesterday but super glassy and clean. Some perfect shaped A frames coming thru. Very nice crowd. Weird GLARE on the water so when you looked at the creek you almost couldn’t see the wave because of the way it was bouncing off the sun. Once paddled out and saw the waves close up however – it was really nice – wow perfect wave. It was almost like it was so glassy that there was no SHADOW cast on the arcing of the wave.
Stats/Video :

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.35
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : WOW. Solid. Clean, glassy. Working thru the highish tide. Sets were big. Had to scratch over some scary ones. Creek had some head high A frames – but was very crowded at 730am. Plus the close outs that came thru didn’t look nice. Dox had less of a crowd. Surfed very solid. Lot of waves. One of the better morning of the Summer of 24!
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – pretty damn good out there. Very clean. Nice small Right wedges coming through at the creek – hardly anybody on it – so we all had the pick of the sets
Stats/Video :

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Back in the saddle. Very clean and very small. Vacillated but decided to suit up and glad I did. Just 4 of us _j-S- in front of the A lot pump house. Very glassy little lines coming thru every now and again – glad I went in…
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