Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : Thought I was being smartby going direct to the dox but it was real slow going. I paddled over finally to the creek – south side of rock garden and wouldn’t you know it – once you got up close and personal there was a supe r nice fast right hander. Everyone was positioned either A: too far ahead of the shoulder OR B: toor far behind /deep at the peak. There was a sweet spot in between the two with the perfect takeoff spot with no one sitting in position. I paddled over and got a nice little screamer. then a no leash longboarder followed me and we traded off waves- all rights that released where you typically paddle out at boat dox. my last ride i dismounted into a giant patch of seaweed so thick it felt like quicksand. I emerged onto the beach stringy thick like the creature from the black lagoon. I showered at the stall but even so later a co -worker said- “I think you have seaweed in your hair”…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions