Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95 MD
Notes : Gigantic up and down the coast with 25 MPH offshore. Oddly people were not stacked up at the Dox. Softies crowded around Taco Bell and then getting decimated when the set waves came through. Far In the distance two surfers – like ants- were hitting the point. We could see them sweep across these GIANT monsters – painting an enormous scribble on the waves face. was cautious. hard to get into any wave especially since you went bling because of the wind whipping in your eyes. After an hour a wave lined up for me and I stroked DOWN the face. It stayed open forever. Surfed it to shore. Done. 1 Wave = 1 Hour.
Stats/Video :