Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : minus*
Board : 95
Notes : offshore – texture on the surface. the B lot almost empty. a handful of folk here and there. dox maybe 5 folks. stuff was coming in but no one was around- felt like 1987. anyway I started out with a nice chunky small left that held up then everything fell to pieces. Really good local long boarder came over to Me and said you need to be more up front when you paddle into the waves -I’ve been watching you for years and you just are always half way down your board when you paddle into the wave. he was right of course. with Rob from paddle academy I learned to change my basic paddle. rob always said get up front – almost like you are sinking. I do that in paddling out. but when I paddle into waves I’m almost always sliding back to the mid point of the board – I miss the wave and flail- like almost every wave today…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions