Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Action was up north by Crespi. It appeared dumpy and lumpy however once out in the scrum you could pick off pieces and sections. It looked as if the wave was going to close out – but then only one section would break offering up a (soft ) left or right option. Then the whole wave would fold over but you had the reform option if you could do a little candy-foot dance on the wave. It was kind of fun and challenging. Also fits time I had a wave where I was swept up in the face and judged as I was gliding on it – should I take it? should i go left or right? I decided yes then pressed the board down with my arms into the crest heading left- then once on my feet immediately swung the board right into the curl across the line…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=1324
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions