Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : MD2.0
Notes : Wow. Windless clean and on the sets -BIG – at least for me. A couple of cleanup waves rolled in and you could hear the collective “gasp” from everyone in the lineup. I managed to just barely scratch over the feathering lip each time – avoiding a horrendous over the falls wipe out. That said I got one right in particular that as all face- was really able to feel the lightness and maneuverability of the board – with some decent face on it. Who was coming down the line from the Left? D and we both did graceful dismounts – hi coming from the left and me from the right. Powerful sea today…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions