Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Small and clear and sunny. had one ruff and tumble awkward left – surfed shite. but who the fuck cares. I surfed and the monster is fucking gone. never in my life did I think I would say it with such heart – that awkward phrase that so often to me was used by traitors to hide behind their grift and corruption – but here it is – I’m saying it and today at 56 I am fucking believing it – atheist , agnostic , believer or pagan — GOD BLESS AMERICA
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions