LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***+
Board : 94
Notes : Yes a five. The a lot pump house was working again. It seemed crowded however with a lot of quality surfers including B6 and crew. D5 was also getting in so my eyes rolled down towards the creek. Noone except a canoe guy. But M4 was walking back and said to me-“go” it’s great and no one is on it. Just then a majestic right hander came in at the creek – un ridden. I hoofed it down there and avoided the crowd. Well worth it. The first half hour was magic fat feathering roller right at the creek- they guided you in then you had a wide open face that curled into an inside section. After a half hour it dropped however – and changed- D3 came in and was nice to talk w/her. She also avoided the a lot pump house real b/c of the crowd. we shared what arrived – which included a pod of dolphins getting jiggy. The wave was now more inside – but still a gem – you could “carve” the face. I also did a switch foot and rode the second part of a wave successfully goofy footed – it was great. Only 10 waves but each was so well groomed …
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=20186.