Day: January 7, 2020

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Straight to the hook – tide was going low – swell had died so no hemming g and hawing. The second bowl was perfect – well groomed little wave – but with a little push. There was a lot of people surprisingly – given the small size- maybe it was the occasional shoulder high that brought out the better surfers. had a hard time finding my groove. however I managed to score a set wave that had a lot of juice and surfed it really well – a long ride – up and down the face. Soon thereafter who shows up? The Dunder!!! Had been so long since I was in the water with him. I decided rather quickly to head down to Sharks. A good move- Christian of EVOL surfboards was on it with another really good longboarder. That’s it basically. Had a rough time finding my groove/ pocket. But scored a nice set wave finally. I would hazard to guess that I stayed near the nose for the longest time EVER on a wave. It felt very comfortable being that forward for THAT long on a wave – almost the entire ride was on the front end- two sections were right in the pocket/curl- I never felt like I was “teetering” – just calm – relaxed – no “effort”- Was it the board OR was it the wave???
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