Location : C
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 92asp
Notes : going w/the five. wide breaking glass. somewhat weird waves because they had this soft fold over quality- but then went on forever if you could get around the section. in fact i did a number of time. caught an outside wave but – at first- could nt get around a section that collapsed around me- i was riding white water forever trying to get ahead- finally i broke free and beat the section- in the curl for a glassy ride. so weird to have an initial great ride – then the wave collapses around you – then beating the section and opening up into a brand new vista. caught another outside bomb where i was in the curl – head high very serious- thought i was gonna be barreled – i was right on the edge of the board to stay ahead – i felt the lift and comfortable with my weight so far forward. T3 said whity took down a dolphin on the north end of linda this morning. signs were up because i stopped on the way back (“warning shark sighted” – peeps paid it no mind) cowells had a GWS on tuesday by the buoy – kinda disconcerting as that is where i like to sit… only june … what will october bring???
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=25512.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions