Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ****
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow that was special. Best performance in a while. Large waves when I first got out – so I was a little hesitant. I stayed far outside and managed to pick off a couple of heaving monsters- it was essential that I kicked out right away almost because as they barreled towards shore they folded into tomahawk close-outs. They were relatively short rides – but fast and powerful. It felt like I was far away from the pack on the inside- then the set wave would come and I would surf it from the outside to just a little bit past where the rest of the line up was on the inside. Also, almost everything I paddled for I got – about at 80%. It kind of quickly died down (the outside sets) but then still got an inside gem to end the session. Top performance day.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions