Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clocks not yet turned back. Got up super early. Driving in pitch black – the in fog and pitch black. At 645 am the B lot was almost half packed. still dark and you needed headlights on. yesterday people were walking down to the beach with boards. how were they surfing I wondered. I could see big white foam and hear waves crashing- it looked big from Taco Bell all the way to the north end. I walked down to dox and could see about 4 surfers in the shadows. Dox was ON and working. First light appeared and suddenly you could make out things a whole lot better. I walked back and suited up – it was already getting crowded. I hugged the coast for the paddle out and stuck to sitting a bit outside and to the North of the main pod. I immediately got two bombs – gentle bomb I would call them. Dox was crumbling over gently so you could hop on a corner. first hour was great – and finally surfing with confidence – making good choices wave wise. Wishing an hour the fog had burned off – the sun had risen and it looked like another world – great sesh…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions