Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and it looked m mushy. plus crowded. but people were getting out they said to me “its good”. indeed it was very very good. it kind of glassed off- and there were nice chest size little dox walls that were coming through. I was surfing great – with a lot of control. Razor sharp on the dime cutbacks- some hood ornaments. then everyone got out except for me and one woman. empty the last half hour. every wave that came thru I could take. weird thing is plenty of folk were at the creek. just twenty yards away. though to get into the wave you really did have to severely paddle right – into the crest then IMMEDIATELY turn and go left- that’s when the whole wave opened up- if not you would just flail on a shoulder that wouldn’t let you in…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions