Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : At the A lot there was an open wave so I hit it first – but could not comnnect. paddled down to Taco Bell and managed one okay ride. then paddled back to the A lot and waited for a Sharp fast breaking left. Wave was more amenable to a shorter board- but I finally managed to land one – fast left rocket. By the time I had changed out conditions had changed to $ STAR all up and down the beach!!! “open faces everywhere – people pissin in the lot you know they just don’t care – don’t push me cause I’m close to the edge – I’m trying not to lose my head – a-ha ha”
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions