Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Smaller than yesterday. barely a crowd. I started off at dox. and I just kept blowing wave after wave- misjudging – paddling and cooking out. I finally got two waves and surfed them well however. but given the slim crowd I should have had many more. I then paddled over to Pandibar/Creek. Nobody was there – but a big fat right wedge was coming thru. I’ll be damned if I wasn’t gonna get one. again I kept misfiring on my waves – maybe I wasn’t digging enough OR just not reading the lumpy wedges correctly. however one finally came my way – a nice right with a generous reform…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions