Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 84 al
Notes : Coming over the first big hump into Pacifica- where you get that first view of the vast expanse of the Great Pacific Ocean- I knew it was gonna be too big for the Mar. A giant whitish/brown swarth was visible all the way out at the Pacifica pier indicating a MEGA wave had just broken. I stopped at the B lot. Dox was packed over head high and an ocean beach like paddle out. I headed down South and found Capitola to be quite doable. It was big – head high on sets- but clean and very comfortable paddle out. I availed myself well on the new board. Really biting into wide open sections of the face – racing -for me at least- down the line. Improvement…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions