Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Very foggy. Big. 715 am and 22 people piled together at dox. I wavered because of size and crowd. But it was Lully between sets so I suited up – p[addled out via “hugging the rocks”. Primarily this is because if a set comes very few people are going to be going right. Thus, once you get out in the lineup you paddle over to the take off zones. I stayed somewhat north and away from the main pod hoping something would swing wide and invite me in on the shoulder. Also less people in the flight path. At one point D. screamed “outside” when I crested I saw what he was talking about. A big wall. Big for me. I hustled and thought I wouldn’t scratch over the lip – but I made it. It really zapped p[eople on the inside. A wave came my way – I had a good takeoff and initial section but then rushed to the nose to make the really big shoulder. I rushed to fast and stumbled over the nose of the board. That was the wave. I waited and waited. Finally got a somewhat nice shoulder high crumbled that I surfed so – so. the crowd had greatly diminished but I decided to call it quits for the sesh …
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