Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Frustration. Couldn’t really make anything work – except for making g wrong decisions – that I was pretty good at – in fact , almost professional level- wrong wave selection, wrong pop up, wrong foot work – king of wrong. Yet, at the end of the session I had one redemption wave- paddled over to dox and scored a really nice wave – and surfed it well – as Robert Marley once opined_ “Redemption Wave – it’s all I ever had – Redemption wave”
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions