Location : PG
Time/Length : am/pm /2.5
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : BB
Notes : AM: set up w/eric of aqua tibia to film me. We met at 7 am on the south end. Still it was sizable – and mostly closeouts. I surfed catastrophically and have the video to prove it. The only rides of significance were literally my very first and very last – corner shots that I surfed like a wobbly drunk. One wipeout was code red – ripped my go pro off my wrist-more dumb plastic out in the ocean – my bad. After I took ole BB back to the surf shop from whence I got him I headed over to aqua tibia again – the store I should have gone to on day one. Marcellus set me up with a pristine 90 walden – no pock marks – I installed my pivot fin that I had brought with me from sf. Set up with a lesson w/Marcellus at noon on Wednesday. PM big and closeout on the south end of the beach- not havin it.
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions