Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Well holy shit – it was LOVE’s ORANGE SKIES here in NorCal. Cloud cover with three layers of smoke ABOVE that cloud cover means – no real sunrise- just a weird dusky orange glow in the sky. the waves were clean and small – mostly closing out. in the water I said to T-“its like surfing and smoking cigarettes at the same time.” T said “no because with cigarettes at least you have a filter” it was like surfing on Mars. At the end of the session I launched into this killer waist high right- the wave just OPENED UP like nobodies business and kept offering up more and more open face – halfway through the ride I said – holy shit this wave is still wide open…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions