Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow that was a lot of work to try and angle in two close to shore waves. But both of them were okay. Funny – it always feels like I’m closer to the nose when I’m surfing in critical sections than I actually am – both of these I thought I was further up on the nose than what was in fact the case…
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