Month: August 2019

LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : weak anemic surf but windless and crystal clear. challenging to find surf able little corners – but after a while I got into groove and found some lines- I was carelessly grabbing my board when it shot back at me and slammed into my upper thigh – very big OWEE. LESSON- even in nothing surf the board can do damage
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LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast and slight chop- flat in the South and all the action up North by Hotels. Waves were wide breaking slosh. They would appear to be pitching up (oh hear comes a good wave) then they would hit a trough and flatten out – then  right at the lineup – they would pitch up steep again and break wide. Sometimes they would make a nice re form on the inside. Somewhat difficult waves to read – paddle into – and surf. But I was surfing really well  seemed to be in the right place at the right time for the whole session – missed very few waves that I paddled for. GIGANTIC whale out back doing massive tale whacks…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Gray and foggy. nothing on the south end- small zippers by the A lot – lefts- hardly anyone at the little peak because most were further North by shipwrecks/hotels. I surfed great. Before leaving I paddled up North – WOW it was a little bigger tham it had looked. MS and R in the mix. I git two nice rights…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes :  A 3×3. It was dense foogy marine layer. South end was flat then more or less closeouts. However, by the A lot pumphouse it the corner was staying open. It was also clean and glassy. Was able to race into a heap of little lefts- water was warm – midway thru the sesh the sun BURNED a hole thru the fog exposing the mountain top behing Safeway and clear blue skies. It was weird -like a frame. Then the fog came back and the picture disappeared
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length :am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : foggy as all hell- seemingly micro but very clean and windless. still super crowded. I could see a little section that had a little corner by the A lot pump house- I managed a bunch of corners thru the swarm- then it got a little better and got some nice rides- surfed good…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Wow – a 3X4 sesh. Back at the creek – it was a left that was open. Except for the Northend -where it was slightly macking – everything was TOTAL apache tomahawk closeouts. just that little left by the creek. but my god it was weekend 10 am crowded when I rolled into the b lot at 715 am.  however when I got to that little slot where the left was working the 20 surfers were negligible- it was really only three of us that kn ew where to sit and grab the goodness= everyone else was kind of just social surfers out for the weekend – -so it wasn’t that bad. on top of it I surfed exceptional- I slotted into those lefts like a machine – very smooth- overcast and windless – great sash…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : That would be a 4X4 sesh at the dox. Exceptional waves and performed exceptionally. Back with the repaired and freshly waxed 94 AL. Could NOT believe how crowded it was at 715 AM. A lot very nearly full- B lot packed. Dox super crowded – but even more crowded at the creek where the wave was closing out. Sort of biggish on the North end- but at dox they were rolling in shoulder high – folding over softly – leaving a gently sloped wide open face. My first twenty minutes were tough – right in the scrum. Turns out there were really only three surfers of note including C and C. after 20 I got my groove on and it emptied out a bit – scored some long magic- got out after my fourth wave simply because it was so good and had been an hour…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 84
Notes : Grey and foggy/misty. Slurpy mushy little wedges from the north end (which were bigger) to the South end. The water felt the WARMEST it has been all year – shocking. I was surprised  how well I did on the short board – felt very comfortable on it and managed a few nice corbers. After sesh picked up old 94 board repaired by RW
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