Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 92ASP
Notes : Well- THAT WAS FUCKING MAGIC. Had to be downtown at 930 so left before sunup- suiting up at first light w/the M2, B3 and there early boy crew. Glass waist to shoulder high- very easy to flow into the wave- they weren’t long rides (except my last one) just very very easy flowing and pure. High in the sky was the huge white harvest moon-like out of a Disney comic book. inner eyes the sun rose and split the clouds in the distance turning them a majestic orange and purple like a bruise- the whole fucking thing was a straight up painting by jaw turner come to life
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=46026.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions