Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****+
Performance : ****+
Board : 95
Notes : Surfings technical description for todays session is: HOLY FUCKING SHIT!! Today was on par with the infamous super-run swell of 6/30 through 7/5 Capitola sessions from the beginning of this summer. Perfect Cap. Not too much kelp. Breaking waist to head high ( where I sat) on the outside. But midway inside was also working. Also working was the inside Right of the first jetty. 17 surfers on those three “peaks” – plenty to go around. Also the outside waves were perfect A frames – so each set wave had two surfers. Outside wait for the sets was about 15 minutes – so not that bad. Plus there were 3 to 5 waves per set. I had about six waves. 3 were golden magic kali dream waves. One outside set wave that was almost like taking off on a glass table – it was so easy as pie – like butter- barely two strokes and I was off to the races. Wave allowed for numerous S turns which I love taking advantage of on the magic dove – the board grooves with my husky frame. Halfway thru on one wave I passed “pizza my heart guy” coming back out. We rocked eyes as cut back and hit another section and he said “niccccce”.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions