Location : LMN
Time/Length : am
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Big chill out with a north of A lot pump house set up. I was on the fence given I was still recovering. But it was relatively glassy and mellow and glad I paddled out for my heat. I waited way outside for a set wave and used into a very nice right. My second wave was a bit of a nothing burger. Surprised to get 4th out of 5. heart heart life , Mike Wallace etc etc in a heavy heat of good to great longbiarders – so I was happy for surfing that one good wave well…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions