Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Making giant surf up and down the coast. Cap was perfect glass. folk were way outside. Was it too big? I was a little nervous but I sat outside and was rewarded – a GIANT outside3 right that went on forever- super heft. Got 4 or 5 more. Best waves of the Fall. when I got in – the news outlet ts had called it for PAW PAW BI-BI – almost cried tears of joy…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions