Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : Cold. Clean. Partly cloudy. Windless. Surprised myself with some decent lefts – about three that were a nice shoulder length – with a nice green face – but hand to get out after 45 minutes. Crossing through the creek in bare feet – it’s like my feet are numb to the rocks – I just power over them – they could be shards of glass and its likely I wouldn’t feel it any…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions