Month: September 2021

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Pretty clean at the creek. Some size coming through. The left was open despite around 20-25 people on the peak. Most were going right – so it made for a clear flight path on the left. I got some great rides – but I sort of mangled them – surfed in -elegantly and without control. a bunch of waves I caught I was a little too deep – so I warbled to my feet like a drunken sailor. still got some gems. clear blue sky…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Wow – pretty damn good at the dox. Basically empty. Just me and T. It was choppy and kind of crumbly big – but some nice long rides. The north end was completely closed out and gigantic. but dox held its own – very good session – nearly empty lineup
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.o
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and small at the creek. But there were some here ad there’s. I got a very ice right – speedy and zippy. Plus only 9 people on the peak – which qualifies for empty these days
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Flattish down south. Dumping everywhere else. I hemmed and hawed for an hour. There was a soft open shoulder at the dox and I finally suited up for it. Glad I did. There was a little corner thingy-bobby that was coming through that I was able to grab. Pretty much NOONE at dox – so anything that came thru was mine. Plus I was surfing well- so with the little waves  I was able to make some very sweet soft lemonade…
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : The creek looked good from the B lot. Soon as I got in I managed a little left. Then it shut down. Turned into shore dump- I couldn’t manage to find another open corner. Then I took off on anything burger and the magic dove whipped back and hit me in the upper thigh. Very painful – even in cold water. I knew it was not gonna be upper thigh happy time after I de frosted. I paddled up to the A pump house. It was godawful – confirmed by E. I managed some face time on a double up and made my exit…
Stats/Video :

LMB/C

Location : LMB/C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Started at the dox cause the creek peak was kook swollen. I managed a absolute killer left- a perfect boat dox waist high template left. Then dox went dead. after 20 minutes of nothing I paddled over to the creek where -to quote bob Dylan “the crowd thinned out” managed 2 or 3 more little thingy bobbies and called it a session…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and clean. Hit the creek even though it was crowded with around 30-35 people. (usually 15 – 20 is my cash creek limit.) Plus there was too much testosterone on the peak. it seemed like everyone was under 35, a male, and on a shorter board. Yuck. But I hit it and scored some carefully selected lefts. I hit one left that I was on the shoulder of- it was a larger set wave – I paddled and was effectively on the wave- but holding off because three of these kids had taken off on the peak. I  kept looking back to see “are any of those kids gonna make that drop, skirt around the crumbling section and make the open shoulder where I was?” The answer was no. All three of them fell – shot down like doughboys going over the line in WW1. Essentially, at that point, I just stood up and scored a very nice glassy left – the shoulder was like a NYC deli –  WIDE OPEN ALL NIGHT…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : 12 people at the creek- almost empty. it looked super flat so I just watched and waited. sure enough that little old  bump came through – the action was on the left – it stayed open longer – fatter face. got some nice little gems
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : My god. classic boat dox fall day. clear blue skies. glass. thigh to shoulder high stuff coming through. pretty consistent. not really that long of a wait – except if -like me- you sit outside and wait for the bigger offerings. the inside pod was more consistent. great sesh – especially the first 45 minutes – only 5 of us. then it got pretty jammed up real quick.
Stats/Video :