Month: September 2021

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : I wasn’t gonna do it. small sloppy and onshore. but damn if there wasn’t that corner left ad right bump at the creek. Plus J was absolutely nailing the fin first take offs on the chunklets. Suited up – and glad I did. Settled on the Rights because the flight path was more open- ailed a few nose riders after getting off to a rough and kooky and sloppy start…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : got up late. there was a bump at the creek again. was gonna pass but convinced by folks to jump in. a qwik sesh – surfed poorly but did manage two rides that were good lefts ad worth the price of admission
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : FAT LIP CREEK TRUNK SURF is not an unreleased album from 1979 by The Band or song title by GBV. it’s what I did this morning. I surfed kind of poorly. it was glassy and sunny when I went in- then it became cloudy with onshore winds by the end of the session…I had one wave that I didn’t surf like a  two left legged kook…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clean knee to waist high bump at the creek. not too crowded – nice crowd – surfed well – with a fat lip
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : As Utwo once sang: “MONDAY, BLOODY, MONDAY”- It was packed at the creek. packed with people who could almost – but not quite surf- a dangerous combo. combined with LONG lulls. when a wave did show up everyone felt it was there god given right to claim it no matter where they were in the lineup. boards and bodies strewn every which way after a set rolled in.  I was trunking it in the 62 degree tropical water. I never managed to score anything substantial – just bits and bobs. one wave I was finishing on – the board fell in front of me – then me sort of on top of the board- the rail hit me in the face and I knew there was damage. blood everywhere- where my teeth okay?- couldn’t.\,t tell. J , G and T helped me at the car as I assessed the damage and glazed it up- teeth good – lip kind of smashed and cut in two places – essentially just a fat lip. really lucky…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : back at the left just north of the a lot pump house again- surfed well and by Jesus if dawn patrol didn’t have me at a record breaking 30 waves. I actually was so tired at 28 – but I stayed in for two more just to get to the 30 mark. they weren’t shit waves either- I would say 10-12 were complete kook misfires – but the rest had some action
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : small. very small. clean and flat. I went directly to the A lot for parking. pods were in and around a little left and right in front of the A lot pump house. however, just a few 100 feet further north there was a left – very clean – very small – nice open shoulder. 0 people on it. I quickly went there and locked in to some very nice left zippy nuggets. Then A joined me – and the  E. we were the only ones working it really. it lulled out for about 20 minutes or so – but then picked right back up good sesh. dawn patrol shows 25 waves – 12 of them were pretty good and 3 of them were very good….not bad
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : “Up on Cripple Creek- They send me- If I spring a ding- she protects me-A loggers dream if I ever did see…” smallish side- but the occasional waist shoulder high wedge. funny thing is about this session was that there were four kooks that were smack in the middle of every wave I went for- blocking me (and a number of other people.) at one point the kook women in the group RAN completely over me- I pushed her away with all my strength – thank god she was on a soft top. no sorry from her afterwards. the four of them dogged almost my every way- a lot of folk got hot under the collar about them. At the end of Chinatown Nicholson is told: “Well Jake, that’s Linda Mar.”
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : There it is again. The peak at the creek. More dependable than Slater’s Wave machine. Cleanish. Crowded-ish- surfed okay-ish – pretty good-ish sesh
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Big. And fat. super high tide was foiling any waves from really breaking. it just turned as I got in- a half hour earlier and it was perfect. I moved over to the creek for the right and managed a couple. the hi tide was lapping at the edge of the porches on docks rocks. kind of a challenge getting both into the lineup and out of the water. cut the sesh kind of short…
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