Month: September 2021

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.30
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Clean and nicely groomed at the dox. massive on the north end from what I could see. work allowed me only 30 minutes. so – I waited and waited – got an outside set wave – perfect – open shoulder – crumbly but really nice. scored one other so so thingy bobby ad had to call it. so that one wave was a four and I surfed it a four…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : The edible from the previous night knocked me for a loop. In the pre-dawn hours I realized loading two long boards onto the car was a slow motion challenge. I drove the 10 blocks to pick up Gina and said she needed to drive to the Mar. She was just as stoned as me – but better equipped to drive. At the Mar Odle met us and could tell we were both like dead head surfers. Odle asked me to get him a parking pass because he forgot to bring his card- trying to do that shit stoned was like re- taking the California bar exam. The creek was packed and I and Gina did not want to face people – so off to a flattish boat dox. After a while a set came in and I scored a glassy waist high peeler – into the sunrise. I guess I know why people surf stoned – time does stand still on the trim. But I don’t think I would ever do it again – it’s just too much – plus I hate not having every faculty in the water. We floundered as the dox went into a big lull- gina went over to the right and scored a few – but at that point the flight path was wall to wall soft top jockeys. called it a session. That night Tom played Saturday Nights Alright For Fighting at the Justin Frahm birthday  Elton John tribute concert at MOR. and the 2021 big chill out weekend ends…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Well it was the 30th big chill out. Gia flew in late Friday from Perry Mason down in LA. I picked her up at 6:20AM at Tom and Dees. Still dark when we got to the quickly filling A lot and they had set up on the south end again. But it was close to dead flat. Actually first time the creek area had bee so dead flat since almost a month. Of course there was a small bump – but  the small surf would prove challenging. Some heats got really dogged with nothing. Some others had some ridable waves come thru during there 15 minutes. We set up near the tower and decide d to surf before our respective heats 11:30 and 12. There were a lot of really good longboard kids up from Santa Cruz making the bump in front of Taco Bell look appealing. (we should have gone way up North – where there was a good wave which we found out about later from Odle, T and M) Durig the practice session of one hour I managed one very nice zippy longish right. The rest was floundering close to shore close outs. My heat performance was dismal – despite the small wave I surfed again like rubbish and came in last. Gina fared better in her packed line up (O and A) and snagged a fourth place which qualified her for the Salami Semis at 12 45. The salami semis were mixed age group and gender and short and long board. seven competitors – a couple of them were like junior Joel tudors. she nevertheless got sixth of seven but did not advance to the Salami Finals. We headed back to Capp and picked up Tina- hit the Urbana edible store then went to Gus’s market and got caught in the Chollo hot rod mess that had most of Mission closed down. Finally got back to Capp and Bill came over then we ordered Burma love take out and decided at the end of the evening to take Urbana edible. It would prove to be our undoing for the next mornings session…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : the b lot was full. the creek peak had maybe 40 people. I went to dox – a good move- six of us – nabbed four sweet rides – surfed them really well – perfect angled nose riders
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Location : LMC
Time/Length :am/1.45 
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95 
Notes : it looked nice at the creek from the b lot. saw several crumbly rollers march in – and not overly packed. however when I went out there’s it changed almost instantly. nothing but shore dump – I hunted and decked for an hour with nothing. finally at 830 I moved more south – and things picked up for me for the next half hour – weird sesh    
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Glassy creek. substantially smaller. but still kind of great – with some nice lefts rolling through if you could stand the lull…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Pretty damn good at the dox- but crowded as hell. definitely more crowded than a Saturday or sunday – plus so foggy you couldn’t see the lineup. Yet at 715 am the B lot was full. go figure. had a hard time jockeying for an outside set wave. one I did get had R’s fried on it ? – he called my name and I dismounted – but it was to late – he was kind of upset despite me apologizing twice. will I ever be forgiven? time will tell…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Large ad dumpy. sets were big. creek was to big for me. at dox I was very selective. had to scratch over a number of head highs. a lot of times I paddled – the aborted at the last second cause it was going into a colossal close out. I managed three nice outside waves- I dismounted on all three earlier than normal cause I didn’t wanna get tomahawked…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Jesus it was crowded on that creek peak. I swear I weaved between people that were kook bobbing on the inside. very challenging and good exercise in keeping control. the creek peak kind of shut down for a bit – on the left- so I paddled over to the less crowded right – where there was a clear flight path – scored a killer right that just kept on giving – distance wise- for the Mar…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Back at the creek. nice little bump again – with some sets coming thru. trading off set waves with d the c – who I normally avoid. but he took his set waves and me mine. I stayed on the left cause flight path on the right was a solid line of soft top kooks. normally it’s exactly the reverse and I settle for the right…
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