Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear clean and windless again. Bigger. While paddling out to my spot at the dox I scratched over some very nicely groomed RIGHTS that were coming in at the creek aka “PIANDA’S”. I briefly considered changing my plan but held course for the dox. Not that long of a wait when a perfect head high slab of glass dropped into my lap. Paddling back out towards dox again RI screamed at me “yo fuck dox… ya gotta do this right ots way more consistent and has some power”. I took him up on the offer and he was right. My first wave was a sloping amgled take off and i held tight to the top of the wave. Then however i tried to get further up on the nose and i stumbled and went head over heels over the front of the board. Such a shame because there was beauvoup fave real estate in front of me. A couple of more of those rights – a great sesh
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions