Month: March 2019

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 84 al
Notes : clean and sunny- somewhat glassy. bigger on the north end. at the a lot pumphouse to Middles it was lumpy- dumpy- and warbly. Making it hard for me to get into any sections. A higher than usual percentage of tomahawk closeouts. I had one very nice left that I had to abort because of a kook in the flight path. other rides were unremarkable…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **+?
Board : 84 al
Notes : Real nice waves in front of the A lot pump house. One peak that was just breaking a little past shore break as an A frame- nice fat clean faces. Amazingly, as soon as I got in I managed two great waves in a row-boom! Felt good. Had I finally mastered the board?? Of course not. I floundered the rest of the sash. Never quite got a wave as good as those first two. Yet – for sure_ best day yet on the new board…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : **+?
Board : 84 al
Notes : well finally nailed it on two waves. the were head high and I got in early – full face – room to breathe – to move – to start and FEEL the board. I was actually SURFING again. damn it goes fucking fast. anyway it was a good morning tina along for the ride- cloudless – windless- sunny- Taco Bell clean peak…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board :
Notes : clean sunny – mild action by taco bell and spots up north. I finally got what amounted to my first ride on the board- a walled up right that I managed to stay on – then ride down the line – gathering some speed – then cut back and get some more juice on the mushy re form- that must mean some gradual improvement…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : * or**
Board : 84 al
Notes : well nice waves at the dox – sun out – little mushy – and again hella hard to get into on the new board. I managed one right that was half way decent – so I took that as an improvement. Feels like Im starting surfing from scratch…
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