LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.o
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cold gray and drizzly. but the mar was packed north to south. I thought the right at the creek. but then a perfect shoulder high wave came thru at dox – so dox it was. my first half hour were good but never managed to score the outside bomb. it got crowded and sort of died down so I paddled over to the right at the creek. it had jacked up – steep barreling right – more short than long board – but I waited and got a real ROCKET – stayed ahead of it – just barely – the wave curling and crashing on my ass as I kept one step in front of it…
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