Month: July 2023

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Pretty damn good I’d say. pretty small and – for the size- pretty crowded. but I surfed well and that made all the difference- was able to snag some corners here and there – I didn’t surf ‘smooth and confident’ – I was more kind of herky jerky on my pop up and on the board – but still it was a good session. With Texas at 122 degrees its really frigid in the water and cold when you’re changing out…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Looked right tiny lo tide rubbish from the B lot. Cold and grey. Then, however, a set came thru  at the dox- very well groomed – small but nice. I suited up. When I got out there the three people in the dox lineup left – so I was alone- which I don’t like. That said, I was surprised by about 4 or 5 waves that came through that offered up nice little lines – not bad for an on the fence session…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : WINDY AND BLOWN OUT. LAST DAY OF SURFING WITH GINA AND ODLE. LAST NIGHT WE SAW CP AT CAFE DU NORDwith Salinas Cumbia band – that was pretty unique and rocking… summer rolls on…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : clean glassy clear skied creek peak- not that many all things considered – some nice set lefts – gina and Odle getting in when I was getting out…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : md2.0
Notes : just too damn crowded at the creek peak – 22 on it- plus things got heated with an asshole jabrone- we paddled over to the dox – where itv was slower and mellower and Lully – but crowd was sealable
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Location :LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : pretty damn good at the creek – crowded but not overly so. surfed well – gina on her  910. that night went to barb cue with Benjii T tom dee mike and gina
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.10
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : another micro dose day. caught a few in the first 15 minutes but then it was pretty much null and void. gina and Odle coming in as I got out, they wound up paddling up by creeps which had more to offer. Last night was drugs at the baobab – quite the turnout of ole friends and family – zsofu – phoenix, phoenix girlfriend, tallulah , Katy j, Sluggo, jimmy broutais, mike, gina, Giselle, Jake, genie, dr d., on and on and on – quite the event…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md2.0
Notes : micro-dosing at Taco Bell with L and maybe two others. not much to offer but snagged a few ankle biters…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md2.0
Notes : Creek peak again. Except it was smaller and not as clean AND almost twenty more people. Go Figure. yesterday was bigger and cleaner and just three of us on the peak. Today- worse conditions and a zoo. Spied M as I was going in who had a big hunking divot in his board as a result of a collision. My first wave I  RAN OVER a guy who dropped in on me. I had no time time to call him off I just went over him and his board- I tried to HOP the board over him and maybe it helped. I have no idea how this collision did not result in both board and bodily injury – but we were both unscathed in board and body. I WAS SHOCKED. I got some nice waves – then dropped in on a short boarder who got pissed – I profusely apologized- and he seemed to accept … just one of those mornings – Jesus. Oh – and I cut the living fuck out of my feet again on the rocks. still all in all it was glorious. T had just gotten back from an A;LASKA fishing trip and GAVE ME a giant wild caught salmon HE CAUGHT TWO DAYS BEFORE!!!!

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