Month: October 2020

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Got out again at first light. Tomahawk closeouts from the South to the North end – except for Dox. Not as big as yesterday. Had some glorious rides – two waves I surfed very strongly – with confidence and control and ending with a razor sharp turn into another section at the end of the wave. The rest of my rides there was a stumble or a wobble in the ride that made it feel compromised – as far as getting everything out of the wave that I could given my capabilities…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clocks not yet turned back. Got up super early. Driving in pitch black – the in fog and pitch black. At 645 am the B lot was almost half packed. still dark and you needed headlights on. yesterday people were walking down to the beach with boards. how were they surfing I wondered. I could see big white foam and hear waves crashing- it looked big from Taco Bell all the way to the north end. I walked down to dox and could see about 4 surfers  in the shadows. Dox was ON and working. First light appeared and suddenly you could make out things a whole lot better. I walked back and suited up – it was already getting crowded. I hugged the coast for the paddle out and stuck to sitting a bit outside and to the North of the main pod. I immediately got two bombs – gentle bomb I would call them. Dox was crumbling over gently so you could hop on a corner. first hour was great – and finally surfing with confidence – making good choices wave wise. Wishing an hour the fog had burned off – the sun had risen and it looked like another world – great sesh…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ****
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear skies. Glassy. Perfect little peak coming g in right at The Creek. Really the Left was it. But towards the end the Right also turned on. Not really crowded. C and R in the mix. So wish I was more on my game as the waves were really close to perfect. Towards the end of the session my left contact lens popped out on a dismount. It stayed on my cheek so I retrieved it and one armed paddled out past the lineup and was able to put it back in my eye.
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Waves everywhere. Up north was bigger and should have manned up and went North. Creek peak was a kook convention. but I saw a little something at dox – so I went there. it was practically empty – because it was such a long wait for such a soft ride- but it was okay. wasn’t manic surf dodgeball. I got a few little line…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.55
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : North end had big clean slices of carve ability about 65% of the time. The south end was 85% shore dump cluster fuck. Challenging because itbwas so crowded. 2 hours and 20 minutes of me thinking “how can I suck at surfing g so bad yet do it every single day of my life?” Finally the last 20 minutes I started getting waves – such as they were…

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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : my god it looked great. clear skies and nice offshore breeze. placid and then lines would come in. problem in they were about 93% coming straight to shore and dumping – no corners or shoulders. everyone seemed to be having trouble. I imagine OB was perfect. This would likely turn good in a few hours. in two hours I got little dribs and drabs- it was a real hunt for a ridable corner. Finally my last ride had a face and I shot down the line- that was it really – in two hours the only decent wave I was able to muster in otherwise pristine looking conditions (from shore) – I got out…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : Classic Fall Cali Offshore day. lines coming in. north end was jacked. clear and sunny. dox was packed and unfortunately lately I wasn’t on my game. to get out I hugged the coast then scrambled over to the peak. but I had poor wave selection all morning. that said I managed a couple of really nice waves – some heft and juice
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Back at the dox. a little smaller – still a bit of surface chop – but nice chill axe lefts knee to waist high – off to a slow start that was frustrating but managed to sort of right the ship somewhat by the end of the sesh.

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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear with a bank of fog in the far off distance nestled like a crown over the mountains. it was dox again. a tad choppy – a little heft. outside stuff and also more frequent stuff on the insider. the glare of the sun was strong especially if you were going down the line and needed to know who was in from t of you. that is why I needed to pick my line and look – no one there in the flight path. some very nice selections on tap. got some outsiders- kinda glorious. then the fog bank moved in and we were all covered in thick fog within 5 minutes. couldn’t see the shore – it was weird – then the fog bank left in about 20 minutes – back to sunshine…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/55
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear beautiful morning. a fair bit of surface chop and texture on the water. but some swell. and dox was offering up very nice little chunklets. very very congested still- yet managed to get three glorious little lefts – grateful…
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