Month: May 2016

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Wind died down. Not bad from the creek to the dox. I opted for the dox – soft shoulder high peelers that you could do the milk maid thingy-bobby on… S3 back out in the lineup- always great to see her. Rushed back to make the drive down to ojai for Tina’s filming- in the AM back to the legendary C-Street…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=21533

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Spiraled back down to Cowells. Andi and Jonas visiting from Oz along for the ride. Jonas got into my other suit despite being abut six inches taller. There was a cross offshore that was rare for cowells. However some outside wedges pushed through. I snagged one nice right that had some heft. Jonas and I were able to exit on a wave together that gave us some open FaceTime. That night we met at the makeup room w/Chris S. who was in town. Tom on the door- Some band bashing out there thing on the stage. Heaps of fun and laughter from sunup to midnight…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=21458.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board :
Notes : Back at boatdox. softer – less push- some set waves came by however. At one point T3 turned to me and Chuck and asked if we had noticed a “hostile” fin in the water – about 30 yards out. I became concerned – but not concerned enough to scream in terror and flail wildly for the shore- which in retrospect – out of abundance of caution- I should have done. Instead it was just a back and forth dialogue: “hmm was it that bird sitting out there T3? Is that what you thought you saw?” “No, wasn’t that bird” The inquiry sort of drifted away. About 15 minutes later T3 came up to me and said “I saw it again – it was a dolphin an adolescent.” Wow glad we got that one sussed. Oddly enough it was T3 and I that saw the fin coming at us in front of the A lot pump house in September of 2010…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=21278.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : blue sky- windless- boatdox action. everyone on the neighborhood seemed to be out including S3 who i haven’t seen in about 9 months.nabbing some soft shouldered lefts w/Chuck- the moves meandered like a puzzle piece
Stats/Video : on the fritz??

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Cowells magic. Lots of cutbacks. Such a good wave to improve moveson. So well groomed behaves very well – predictable and obedient
Stats/Video : trace is lagging…

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : flat more or less. except for a little wave north of volleyballs almost crespi- it was nice and well groomed- bit of a wait but worth it. Recorded later that day with kelley stoltz and tom in KS studio. with steve A from slovenly and sam. great session great fun song turned out great
Stats/Video : where is it?

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : flat. little pieces north of the pump house with a pod of 3 or so. a seal popped up 12inches from my board and scared the shit out of me until i realized it wasn’t a shark
Stats/Video : can’t find it …