Month: January 2021

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : jumbled knee highs – corners here and there – surfed shite -onshorey wind gave it all a soupy cold uncomfortable vibe
Stats/Video :

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Small and clear and sunny. had one ruff and tumble awkward left – surfed shite. but who the fuck cares. I surfed and the monster is fucking gone. never in my life did I think I would say it with such heart – that awkward phrase that so often to me was used by traitors to hide behind their grift and corruption – but here it is – I’m saying it and today at 56 I am fucking believing it – atheist , agnostic , believer or pagan — GOD BLESS AMERICA
Stats/Video :

NSjt

Location :
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : No surf – still kinda too big – this is the biggest January I remember in my surf life – buy also just jittery about the transition- in most cases surfing helps – but for some reason – maybe its combined with the size- just want – like the majority of the country -this monster gone…
Stats/Video :

NS jt

Location :
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : No surf – still kinda too big – this is the biggest January I remember in my surf life – buy also just jittery about the transition- in most cases surfing helps – but for some reason – maybe its combined with the size- just want – like the majority of the country -this monster gone…
Stats/Video :

NSjt

Location :
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : No surf – still kinda too big – this is the biggest January I remember in my surf life – buy also just jittery about the transition- in most cases surfing helps – but for some reason – maybe its combined with the size- just want – like the majority of the country -this monster gone…
Stats/Video :

NS jt

Location :
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : No surf – still kinda too big – this is the biggest January I remember in my surf life – buy also just jittery about the transition- in most cases surfing helps – but for some reason – maybe its combined with the size- just want – like the majority of the country -this monster gone…
Stats/Video :

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Pacific Ocean calmed down to mellow playful size for a day. managed just one waist high racy right – keeping just ahead of the curl to eek out a half way decent ride. that was about it. at least I still remember how to surf.
Stats/Video :