Month: June 2020

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating :**+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Kinda of overcast and a little onshore. tina came along for the mar beach hike. looked like right bloody rubbish- but things opened up – corners appeared and it all turned out all right…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : it durn was clear crisp and clean at boatdox but twas’ l’iler and weaker than a baby jackrabbit in an agent orange briar patch. soz afterin’ a bit o’ spell of hemming’ and hawing’   I ambled o’er to the right by the creek –  twixt’ what folk likely tend to call panda’s. wouldn’t you know it -right qwik there it fired up some sweet ole open nuggets that I scored – made me happier than a suburban possum squirrel outside an open lid  garbage dump the mornin’ after  thanks – given…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating :***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : my god it was crowded – like 11 am on July 4. real rough on the north end. stayed near the creek – but couldn’t get nothing. finally got a RIGHT that was steep and okay. then I paddled over to the dox and the crowd – waited and waited and managed an okay left. when I got out found out a kid had drowned on the north end – cop cars everywhere and patrols- apparently his leash broke and he got swept up and couldn’t get out. they finally got him and tried CPR on the beach  – but it was to late. everyone was just somber and shocked in both parking lots. – so harsh and jarring. the kids board was in the back of a California water patrol pick up truck – the weathered black leash snapped at the ball bearing joint …
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Would be criminal to go with anything shy of the DOUBLE 4’S. clear and windless. slight surface chop in the water. from the b lot it looked not great – but then a set came and you knew it was happening. I sat outside the dox pod and slightly north of the pod. held out for the el combo’s and got a fair few – surfing very strong – felt strong on my feet and the board. afterward I put sea weed on my head like a cushion and tried to walk with the board balanced on my head. (a la chris Benjii goree isle Senegal folk) – it worked with the seaweed cushion and I got about three steps with the longboard just balanced on my head…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : dumpy goulash of chunky wedges. couldn’t get a handle on any of them. had one nice fat wedge section b ut my leash got caught between my big toe. water was silly with dolphin families – none wearing masks…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clean and windless shore dump. corners were here and there but it was full on hunt and peck. 75% of the waves were just close out shore dump. but once in a while you had this open glass jewel where you would say “holy fucking shit – this l’il ole mini-horse bucking bronco is staying open for a tiny bit of business. on a side note saw BB  ob a long board. was totally shocked. he rocks it like his short – but not quite as well…
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SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Linda was an onshore mess. down in Santa it was too small a swell for Cap. The Hook was a complete zoo. headed over to privates and it was right tide and happening. also not to crowded. I sat outside and waited- was not completely on my game. bad takeoffs. but managed some nuggets where I was able to navigate the weirdly breaking outside wave. afterwards I realized Pleasure Point Down to Capitola is essentially KARENSVILLE. on highway one coming back up north – right around pescadero- passed roughly 100 Ford F-150 tricked out trucks with giant American flags and trump flags in the pick up bed – like some motorized SS fascist unit- trump pick up truck jack officers…

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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : grey misty onshore crumbly garbage pail dump surf. but I saw some corners so suited up. I reeled into some zippers- performed very well- had to select well – then had to get up INSTANTLY- then off to the nose – result= nice little ride. shite surf + surfing well = GOOD SESH
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