Month: June 2019

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Hot damn that was good. Glassy, clear skies, windless. Two distinct peaks. A smaller one at middles. Then another bigger one slightly North of the A lot pumphouse. That is the peak I decided on around 7:10 AM. Outside wide breaking rollers were coming in – waited for about 15 minutes then an outside wave came right into my orbit – a glorious wave – a left – perched right on the nose. The action settled down and focused more on the inside – but still lost count of the waves I got – with tim C and C.
Stats/Video :

SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length :am/3.0
Rating :**
Performance :*
Board :94
Notes :Clean windless and small. stayed at the Hook – didn’t even look at Privates and knew 38th would get to crowded. I expected the occasional settish wave to appear at second bowl – but not really. Kelp was particularly bad. That said I did surf shite and begs the question – how can I surf SO much and still suck so bad? Baffling.
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : a little more push – nothing for a half hour – then things started to come thru so managed a few here and there’s
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes :  rubbishy small close out stuff at the dox – couldn’t connect- but beautiful morning- surfed shite
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Back with the log! This thing is so heavy I can’t believe it. Like a joke.  First hour was outside stuff – felt very stable but took some getting used to. second hour was inside little things – past the jetty with two asian guys who were really good…
Stats/Video :