Month: January 2019

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : pm/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : got to A lot at 815. everyone was up north but it looked to slamming for me. in front of the A lot it was breaking too close to shore. i drove to B lot. empty but it seemed like promising. a wave seemed to break every 15 minutes. i watched in the drizzle from the car for a long time. went home and did errands and came back at noon. it had turned on. now it was somewhat crowded but dealable. i scored some widebreaking rollers and got out after 50 minutes…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 al
Notes :  HOLY Feckin shit! got there and it was overcast and off shore pond – everyone was up North. I thought I saw something breaking by the creek which was empty and flat. i9 drove over to the b lot and indeed on the sets some clean wide breaking rollers were coming in. Steph rode up and I said do you see what I see. I got in in 5 minutes. forgot how many waves I got- one after the other – all nose riders – relatively close to shore but very user friendly – surfed great as well. that day TCIMH photo shoot with mo and senna studio…
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NS

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Notes : raining – took a pass – heard thru the grapevine that I should have gone – was good at the creek which has been rechristened PANDA because of the big new fast food joint it is lined up with now at Linda mar parking lot
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was jam packed again but I was able to see a little more action- didn’t really surf all that well but did manage to find some here and theres…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94 al
Notes : i got a right at the dox as soon as i got in. tghat was the highlight. waves of size but probably the most crowded i have ever seen the dox with the majority of people not being able too surf. got one other nothing flop and got out – too dangerous
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