Month: January 2019

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : everyone said go north but it looked too big. i stayed in fron of the a lot pumphouse and surfed moderately. got one or two nice lefts. quite a day thereafter. mom got good news. tinas wallet found by the airline. i won my appeal with the copyright office. then spent the day recording two new originals with mo in KS studio w/ Rusty.
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94al
Notes : waves of size but couldn’t connect. very cold- one nothingburger and got out…
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Notes : ns early work
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Notes : ns – early work
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Notes : back to sf
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Notes : ns ny =- GREAT MEAL AT ALBERTOS with mom mikel gina. judge napalitono sitting behind us. all agreed albertos is basically a right wing trump hive in queens…
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Notes : NS NY we went to museum of moving image to see THE RIDER with gina laura andrew jim browne lucy ace and katherine. afterwards went to sudwerk with mikel andrew. all loved the movie HIGH ART.
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Notes : NS surf travel back to NYC – Holder
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Location : O PR Wilderness
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : **+
Board : pink sissy
Notes : roadtrip to wilderness because justin videographer said it would be the best place to shoot. beautiful spot- down a long dirt road. gina met a bing lonboard rider who knew AL. keyhole paddle out. we surfed “pussys” 2-3 – a little wind whipped but pretty great- turtles all around. a great fun last sesh – vid to prove it   https://vimeo.com/309785332
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/309785332

Location : O PR
Time/Length : am and pm / 3.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : black rose / local shaper/ pink sissy
Notes : had a rough sesh at maria’s. couldn’t lock in. gina surfed great. we more or less stayed at marias. after two hours went back to bobbys and got a board from a local shaper.then we had lunch and went back to marias for another sesh. i promptly fell on the moss and broke the locals board. went back to bobbys and got a big ole pink sissy longboard – surfed moderately better. that night we had a melange of leftovers
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