Month: February 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Strong offshore but it looked flattish so I went to the A lot. Near Crespi set waves – rigidly holding. Everywhere else just wasn’t breaking. I was a little hesitant b/c it looked a little too intimidating. A lone SUP was in front of the A lot pump house – he seemed to be getting the occasional close to shore wave … I decided to join him. After suiting up I headed towards the spot. Then, I noticed a set coming in … all the way down South- by the Creek. It had been completely flat. A lone beginner the only surfer on it. I waited and watched. Only a few minutes later another perfect set rolled in by the Creek. I changed direction and headed down South. Some great rides all to myself. Then T3 came out – laughing- all to ourselves! Then it got better. And the crowd came out of the wood work. Where did everyone come from so fast? The offshore got incredibly stronger – the waves got bigger. Really good long boarders came out. I could have surfed better … but hey it was an 18 wave session and although they were not long rides they were thrilling because of the offshore element
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=13838

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Capitola again! I’m spoiled rotten. Swell had calmed down. Clear -windless- no fog. Pack of loggers 100 yards from the jetty. No short boarders. Knew it would be ideal. Before I had even parked a set rolled in …. golden mellow Kali wedges- ripe fruit- sweet nectar- log-ilicious. The jabroni short boarders were “ripping” it elsewhere (as well as the expert loggers). Suiting up I could assess the scrum was not super adept. A great session- typical 4 star Capitola. Plus I surfed well. A good gig … with a crowd watching on the quay… so I tried to dance on the board like Ian Curtis’s Califrnia step-cousin. Video excerpts in the stats along with some cheat shots from yesterdays fog shrouded scare -fest…
Stats/Video : “https://vimeo.com/155343546”
http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=13613

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : Super foggy – couldn’t see past the jetty. But it was low tide and I could see loggers were paddling out. A short-boarder came in and said to his friend “you can’t see from here but it’s really crowded out there.” Indeed it was. Once you paddled into the shroud surfers appeared everywhere – ghost like apparitions bobbing in the sea. What was disconcerting was that most of them were short boarders. Not a good sign for me. I paddled diaganol- due south away from the scrum. When the set came it was large – short board material. Fortunately most of them were going left. I waited far from the slot where everyone was packed tight-Got a few right handed bombs. Kind of scary in the fog. Plus I was surfing poorly. But- the waves were good= broad and slabby with a lot of power. Over Heard couple of short boarders say that they were only surfing Capitola because everywhere else was maxed out … like Capitola was a source of shame. I steered away from all of them- santa cruz short board jabroni’s – who needs it
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=13523

C & LM

Location : C & LM
Time/Length : AM/.40
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Hoofed all the way down to Capitola but it was Gigante. Mavericks was on and the whole coast was firing. Went to Cowells – it was doable. However tide was rising and I became afeared I might get caught inside. I truly wavered and thought “I should do this” . In the end I decided not to- I adjusted my pink tu-tu and slunk back into the car for SF. I stopped at Linda on the way back. In the B lot was a lot of folk about to go in- it still looks too big- so I was cajoled to give it a try. Boat dox had a lull where you could power out without getting pounded. Went to the car and WHAMO- forgot my wetsuit. I donned the 3/2 spring shorty and hit the action. It was too big out there. I pushed off on a giant- made the drop and hit a nice right section. One more I thought. Some time later caught a rather okay inside wave – then thought – 40 minutes – enough is enough – the madness must stop
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=13475

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Action was up north by Crespi. It appeared dumpy and lumpy however once out in the scrum you could pick off pieces and sections. It looked as if the wave was going to close out – but then only one section would break offering up a (soft ) left or right option. Then the whole wave would fold over but you had the reform option if you could do a little candy-foot dance on the wave. It was kind of fun and challenging. Also fits time I had a wave where I was swept up in the face and judged as I was gliding on it – should I take it? should i go left or right? I decided yes then pressed the board down with my arms into the crest heading left- then once on my feet immediately swung the board right into the curl across the line…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=1324