Month: December 2020

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : It looked nice from the parking lot – clear and small and not that crowded. Right away I tucked into a right that had a waist eye crumbly face. Then the onshore wind whipped up. then a crowd appeared – mostly young ‘uns. Nothing of substance thereafter – just wind whipped misery Amongst a bunch of soft top kiddy kooks…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : clear and crisp. slight surface chop giving the knee to waist dox waves a crumbly texture. crazy crowded. I surfed okay. would go so far as good – and not as far as rubbish…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clear and cold. clean. slight bump at the dox and managed one or two. then moved over to the creek for one or two. surfed meh … bootie less feet =ice blocks… not complaining though. song in my head for the session – Robbie kriegers slide guitar opening on the doors wild child. how old was he when they recorded that – 20??????
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **?
Performance : **?
Board : 95
Notes : It was giant on the North End. Heap ing mounds of closeout whitewater. But the dox looked manageable and fun. I paddled out and within 15 minutes caught a great open faced meandering right. I actually stumbled on the takeoff – held on- then got up and had a great lengthy and meaty ride. but that was it. paddling back out it seemed to GROW AND GROW by the minute. some 20 minutes later I didn’t really know where to sit. close to the dox pod? midway and the outside? switch over to the right?? then a set would loom and it was paddle like crazy to get over a looming closeout monster. I just wanted an exit strategy. every wave I t5hought had a make able corner turned into an “abort!! abort!! close out!! close out!!” I took off finally on a right I thought would hold- there was a nice face but I couldn’t maintain the thrust on my board and catapulted into curl and got worked. I went in – thankful that I survived. in the parking lot o commiserated with S who tried to paddle down and exit by Taco Bell (she was afraid of hitting the dox rocks because of the huge tide) she got worked really bad but made it out – said “I thought it was over ”
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : was **
Board : 95
Notes : The Who album is called “meaty, Beaty Big and Bouncy” win describes the waves today exactly. Highest tide of the year- 7.1. I went exactly at the wrong time- waves lapping up against the porches of the houses on the south end. However I scored one very good wave- a right that was thrusty and speedy fat faced and exhilarating…

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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : misty foggy and flat. I waited until mid morning and things had picked up such that there was a pod up north. offshore blowing. I was on the fence. Then saw E getting some close to shore nuggets. I followed her lead. however I don’t have her talent and couldn’t replicate her nose rides. I got one which was okay. you had to pop up instantaneously to make the little offshore section – challenging. meanwhile things had picked up up north so I paddled over to that pod. plenty crowded but there was a wave and it was getting better and bigger. finally I nailed a Right that was waist high with two full sections – a more than decent ride – my redemption wave for the session. called it quits
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : Foggy. Mushy and jumbled. Slight onshore. Ridiculously crowded when you consider the weather and wave quality. Surfed sort of poorly. Got some mushy chunklets then did a depart…
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