Month: December 2020

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Swell had died down considerably. slight on shore chop in the water. kelpy. outside waves were Lully. yet once in a while something came by that offered a great ride. Missed two outside waves thru sheer stupidity and kook blunder. Cap giveth and Cap taketh away…
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Massive and mackin’ up and down the coast. Mavs was day of days, Clean as glass everywhere. light offshore. Cap was a golden kali dream of perfection. Only got three waves but they were doozies. Took one almost down to Bombora. One outside wave I hit right at the peak – overhead- thought I wouldn’t make the drop – almost fell down the face on my board – but I held on bottom turned and then it was OFF TO THE RACES – nothing but clean arcing trimming head high glass table face…
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****+
Performance : ****+
Board : 95
Notes : Surfings technical description for todays session is: HOLY FUCKING SHIT!! Today was on par with the infamous super-run swell of 6/30 through 7/5 Capitola sessions from the beginning of this summer. Perfect Cap. Not too  much kelp. Breaking waist to head high ( where I sat)   on the outside. But midway inside was also working. Also working was the inside Right of the first jetty. 17 surfers on those three “peaks” – plenty to go around. Also the outside waves were perfect A frames – so each set wave had two surfers. Outside wait for the sets was about 15 minutes – so not that bad. Plus there were 3 to 5 waves per set. I had about six waves. 3 were golden magic kali dream waves. One outside set wave that was almost like taking off on a glass table – it was so easy as pie – like butter- barely two strokes and I was off to the races. Wave allowed for numerous S turns which I love taking advantage of on the magic dove – the board grooves with my husky frame. Halfway thru on one wave I passed “pizza my heart guy” coming back out. We rocked eyes as cut back and  hit another section and he said “niccccce”.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Bot to the B lot early and it was already almost full. started at dox with the sunrise. took a while but managed a beautiful couple of lefts. waist high-ish. the crowd filled in so I decided on the Right- not quite as far over as the Creek. Got a few Zippy little rights – T . A and M in the mix. The Right started getting more and more crowded. I paddled back over to Dox which had thinned out a tad and waited for the outside wave with M and J. they were really nice set waves full faces that stayed open and clean. I managed one from the outside and managed an extreme perch on the nose of the board- the wave seemed to almost cup me in its grip as I stood suspended over the curl…
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BNS

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Notes : We drove to Bolinas cause it was gigantic waves everywhere. great drive crystal blue skies. magic. at bolinas it was a rising tide. the groin. wave was to short boardy and the patch was breaking but SUPER far out. I decided to be super cautious and take a pass. on the way back we took the north pass. at the top we saw a lone coyote on the ridge framed by the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean in the background. it was like something out of NATGEO.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : *+
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : Big swell arriving. Making 15 ft at OB. at dox- too much water. just not pushing through. The point was massive. you could tell it was getting bigger by the point. By the time I got out and changed big closeout sets were appearing at the dox. I’m glad I got the one or two measly waves that I managed before the el destroy0 stuff arrived…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.10
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear. Clean. Large on the North end. 65% closeouts. But the remaining percentage were big fat cartable walls of green face. Watched some folk get some nice rides. Te closeout sets were brutal- as  did the paddle out if you didn’t scratch out during the lulls. I was having none of that. The South had more my speed of “waves of no consequence.” Truth be told the Right did have some heft and speed. Was in at the wrong time with the tide rising and making it warmly as all hell – still managed a few rights that filled the bucket for the day…
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