Month: April 2019

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : micro at  the dox – bigger up north but it looked close outy. Was gonna pass but then Frank said -“go in” so I suited up and went in. only one at dox was me and … wait for it… d the c!  he soon left and the4n J joined me. got about one little softy mushy thingy that was on the road to wanting to be a middling little wave but just got lost and gave up in a ditch. Afterwards who pulls up beside me  as Im changing but my arch enemy _BB_ I cowered- would he hit me?? should I give him the keys to my car and run away saying “take it all”. Instead he said in very soft voice to me “hey looks alright out there” Indeed it was. in the hour that I was at boat dox Taco Bell had “TURNED ON” nice head high rollers – glass – plenty of face. “Yes I quivered to BB – it changed quite a bit from two hours ago… “Tide” he said. I then said goodbye to my new surf-besty…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : clean clear and windless at the docs. bigger up north but dox was kind of softish and warbly. But they had some size come thru every now and again. I surfed inelegantly. Also D the C was back in the lineup after having seemingly been gone for some time. He never fails to slice a wedge off of any sessions Stoke Pie…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 84 al
Notes : Pretty darn okay at the dox. Overcast and sort of mushy – but things were coming through. I also managed to get alot of waves – however I surfed in elegantly for the most part – wobbly and kooky – but was a pretty good sesh for the wave count alone…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : overcast and real messy chunky stuff. brutal paddle out – like ocean beach- only John M and Patrick in the lineup- it was hunt and peck for a wedgy chunk and I did so so – never got the clean slab I wanted. was really slammed by one wave- very heavy. didn’t look at all as brutal as it actually was from the parking lot…
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P

Location : Privates
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : Down to SZ cause Linda was onshore overcast mess. Swell not big enough for Capitola so I looked at the Hook and 38th. Both had waves but also alot of people. Tide was going low so I went to Privates. Score. Working with only two people out. However both were Jabroni longboarders talking about cars and sports and bullshit. 4 women came in and the jabrones kept taking, taking, taking. One woman almost had words with them – but she refrained and paddled over to me saying “why bother”. Soon however the two jabrones got out and two more woman came in. Then two woman paddle boarders came over from sharks. In all the lineup was about 7- 8 woman and myself. We actually laughed about it quite a bit. Funny thing is the vibe was share share share plus encouragement. Great sesh. I fucking hate men.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : Clear , slight chop- bif ole chunky wedges at the dox- alot of close outs – paddling and then aborting at the last minute because you stare over the abyss into a brutalist tomahwak foamy endgame, bu t managed to get some wedges – I felt I was SLIDING onto the wave for a few … weird
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