Month: June 2016

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Sat way outside- near the buoy and waited. Rewarded. Almost every ride was a 250 yard plus killer. Glass- head high- S curves and cutbacks. My last wave was “only” 219 yards but it was so good i got out. It was overhead. I was the lone wolf in perfect position. People on the inside saw it coming and started to scramble outside. All I had to do was turn and paddle down the face. It kept giving… turn left into the curl and then set up for another section on the right- straight down the line. I had three distinct sections – overhead top of the wave trim- cutback left the set up for the second part- head high right trim- then cut back left and set u[ for shoulder high right trim. could of had two more section s like that but i fumbled. no matter. i body boarded another wave being it into shore for 117 yards
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=24138.

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : **
Board : 92ASP
Notes : Would a been a five… could a been a five … should a been a five…. but surfed kinda lousy. let folk get waves that i should have just charged on … too polite. head high outside glass. love surfing w/the pizza my heart guy- he’s really nice and basically does ballet on his board…in retrospect the video is not that bad a performance
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/170716593

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Boat dox wedges. I was not in the scrum but in between – by the creek. Outside waiting for wedges to come through. Longer wait than being right in the scrum of boatdox but you had it to yourself when it did come through. Ocean was silly with the whales- showing off…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=23632.