Month: October 2016

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Going again w/the four. SL said poor- down at the B lot it looked like big jumbled mess- bigger than yesterday – but folk crowded at the dox. When i got out there it was much cleaner. The reason it looked so jumbled was because the storm had filled the take off point with giant brown SEA FOAM. It was think- we were like in a giant bubble bath. I called it Latte Lefts because it looked exactly like the foam on top of a latte. Made it very hard to take off because you couldn’t see the end of your board- also the waves were big but coming at you like a big brown latte- is it pitching up?? am i positioned right?? i got some great rides taking off DEEP IN FOAM and riding it into a clear foamless section… total trip. My last wave was a monster- half way thru it reformed and I knew – “this is the wave where I break the 200 yard LM barrier. Indeed it was – 208 yards – the new record for length at least amount the 15 or so Trace users from LM. B6 back in da’ mix…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=46201

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 92ASP
Notes : Well- THAT WAS FUCKING MAGIC. Had to be downtown at 930 so left before sunup- suiting up at first light w/the M2, B3 and there early boy crew. Glass waist to shoulder high- very easy to flow into the wave- they weren’t long rides (except my last one) just very very easy flowing and pure. High in the sky was the huge white harvest moon-like out of a Disney comic book. inner eyes the sun rose and split the clouds in the distance turning them a majestic orange and purple like a bruise- the whole fucking thing was a straight up painting by jaw turner come to life
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=46026.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Big… but opted for the right at the creek because it was less crowded than boat dox- a big bruised sky and hugging clean lines coming thru- then dead flat- so paddle out was dry haired cause i timed it Papillon style. Got a few 4 star screamer rights at the creek – very cool- that didn’t somehow download on trace. the paddled over to boat dox. because it got too swamped out- guy at boatdox house had his speakers out and playing great music. he played an early PARLIAMENT FUNKADELIC record that was great to listen to in the water. got a few but clalled it a day because i felt the crowd was just too dangerous – no clear flight path – especially with the high tide
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=45880.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : well it was two plus hours at boatdox crowded but first hour was pretty good… waited a goodly amount of time but the waves were sizable- stayed outside mostly and waited and waited for the bombs. king high tide so i got washed up almost into the living room of one of the boat dox houses. then had to painfully walk across a SEA of rocks until i got to non rock ground. still limping later in the day because of the foot. Told Tina this seems to be Fall 2016 “Season of the Owie”
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=45607.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 anderson
Notes : Howling offshores – light rain – all the action at boatdox. looked very intimidating- breaks in the swell seemed to allow for an unpainful paddle out-it was pretty big- they were WIDE BREAKING and tapering /feathering heavy duty-slope- y mountains- offshore was blowing you out so it was a constant paddle. got some pretty thrilling rides- they were BIG. trace shows yardage at 70 and 60 and its deceptive because that’s a real sort blah blah ride on a normal day – its 60 or 70 yards riding down the line – short. This 60 or 70 yards was almost all DOWNHILL on the sloping face of the wave. on my last wave i had a 140 yarder – however again it was 60 yards straight down- then i could feel it behind me crashing down- i held on as the whitewater surrounded me and kept riding it out- then it reformed for a nice inside right of about 20 yards. quit while i was ahead
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=45347