LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Well well well what to make of today? It was lumpy and shifty- got in right after hi-tide-the sun was rising in a clear sky and it seemed like an army of weekend warriors were entering the water at the same time. Everyone seemed to congregate between the A lot pumphouse and taco bell – scrambling for the same swampy peak. The problem I found was the glare-it was so strong even when I grabbed a line I had to surf with the brakes on because I couldn’t determine if some soft top jabroni was in my flight path. I paddled north of the A lot pumphouse primarily because it offered a clean flight path – it was a longer wait – however the wave seemed to have more of a line and more energy and a clear flight path. Caught a few. Others migrated. At one point I had sweet positioning for a sizable right –but the glare!!!- I couldn’t see except for a very nice right face- who was down there??? Who was further down the line??? I couldn’t tell so I aborted at the last possible second – Glare Abortion. On another wave I managed to ascertain a clear light path on a sweet open line when just after take off I slipped off the board. Probably happened because I have not de waxed since the big chill out (September 19th). Thus, my board was essentially 2 inches of wax on the deck- waxing was pointless-just making some weird landscaping on the board that had little to do with helping with traction. (I de waxed today and the board now feels as heavy as a 5’10” al merrick potato chip). After two hours I found my self positioned very nicely for a head high right hander- the sun had risen high enough to allow me to see the flight path. I launched or rather was sept up into the curl and with two steps was near the nose- a clear line unfolding. I heard someone paddling out scream my name (M – I am 90% certain)- I milked it for 175 yards –pure face time – no white water yardage- 32 seconds of ride time at a maximum speed of 15 mph. Session Over.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=7684