Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 92
Notes : Last night around 10 the surf forecast for this morning 7-10 AM switched from 35MPH onshore to 35MPH offshore. Off to the races. Slight rain – relatively crowded at the creek – another high tide- the offshore was strongest i ever surfed in. A total trip. You had to dig so hard and deep to get into the wave it was amazing- once in they stayed open of course – and were became super hollow. Got some nice ones but not the offshore GEM i was hoping for. Then it started raining heavy. I went for a wave and the offshore was so strong it BLEW my left contact out of my eye. Half blind i decided it was enough – managed to score a nice ride in. Blown to my feet walking back to the parking lot. I realized it was going to be impossible to put the board on the car by myself because as soon as i picked the board off the ground it almost would fly out of my hands like a toothpick. I took the fin off and put the board inside – but couldn’t really see. Given the driving rain and gale force winds i decided to drive across the street to the parking lot and ask them if i could bring my car into the garage where i could safely strap the board onto the top away from the wind. Alas, the garage part of the gas station was closed. however the guy said- drive around back behind our gas station there is a large fence on the other side and you may be protected from the wind. Indeed he was right- it was like a protected little cove and i was able to quickly take the board out and strap it to the top of the sube.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=8931
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions